Mosfetti Forum

Old Macintosh boards do not usually “just die.” They chemically fail — slowly, unevenly, and often right under a PRAM battery or in a humid corner of a case that once looked fine on a shelf.

Hugh Jeffreys’ recent restore of a corroding vintage Mac is a good prompt for a forum-level look at what corrosion actually does, why retro machines are so vulnerable, and what a careful owner can do before a board becomes scrap.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZ7Xm6z38mw

Why classic Macs corrode so readily

Several design-era choices stack the deck:

• On-board lithium batteries that eventually leak or outgas, attacking nearby traces and vias
• Unsealed cases that breathe moist air for decades
• Dense through-hole and early surface-mount layouts where green copper creep can bridge fine nets
• Storage in basements, garages, and attics — the natural habitat of “free” vintage hardware

Corrosion is not cosmetic. Copper turns into salts, solderability collapses, and high-impedance analog/clock nets become intermittent long before a board looks “ruined” in photos.

What “saved just in time” usually means on the bench

In practical restoration work, a machine is “caught in time” when:

• Traces are still continuous under the green, or only local pads are lost
• Battery damage is still confined to a neighborhood of the board
• Key ASICs and ROMs are still readable / socketed / replaceable
• Mechanical parts (floppy, SCSI, power supply caps) are still cheaper than a full parts machine

Once a multi-layer via field is eaten, you are no longer cleaning — you are reconstructing. That is a different skill, a different budget, and a different risk profile.

A sane owner checklist (before you buy ultrasonic cleaners)

1. Open it and photograph everything — battery type, leakage path, cable routing
2. Remove the PRAM/clock battery immediately if it is original or swollen
3. Do not power a green board “just to see” until the worst areas are inspected
4. Neutralize and clean only with methods you understand (isopropyl, careful mechanical cleaning; avoid mystery acids)
5. Map damaged nets against a schematic or known-good donor photo before scraping
6. Replace electrolytics in the PSU while the case is open — power supplies often finish what corrosion started

Why this matters on Mosfetti

Retro computing is not only nostalgia. It is ownership: the ability to keep a machine running without a manufacturer account, cloud entitlement, or disposable mindset. Corrosion work sits right next to right-to-repair ethics — the board is only “e-waste” when knowledge and parts access disappear.

Discussion

What is the worst battery or humidity damage you have successfully reversed on a retro board — and at what point do you stop and harvest parts instead?

Source video: Hugh Jeffreys — “This Vintage Macintosh is Corroding Inside - I Saved It Just In Time”